Beijing Breakfast Food: Fried Liver in Gravy
In the quiet Beijing hutongs at dawn, a rich aroma of garlic and savory sauce floats through the air. Follow the smell and you’ll likely find a steamy little shop where locals are slurping down thick gravy filled with tender pork liver slices and chewy pork intestines. This is Fried Liver in Gravy (Chao Gan’r) — though its name says “fried,” it’s actually braised. One bowl warms you from the stomach to your fingertips — the secret fuel that powers a Beijinger’s morning!
1. Origin and History
Fried Liver in Gravy was created during the Tongzhi era of the Qing Dynasty in southern Beijing, first invented by a snack shop called Huixianju. It began as a humble offal stew for the poor but was gradually refined into a beloved street dish. In the 1950s, old shops along Qianmen Street would always have customers squatting outside at dawn, clutching steaming bowls of it.
2. Cultural Significance
For old Beijingers, this dish is the flavor of childhood breakfasts. The traditional way is to eat it standing up — left hand holding the bowl, right hand using chopsticks, rotating the bowl’s edge while slurping, and finally drinking down the garlicky broth in one bold gulp. This hearty ritual reflects the straightforward spirit of everyday Beijing street food culture.
3. Key Ingredients
Only fresh pork liver and pork intestines are used. The liver must be sliced into thin willow-leaf shapes about the thickness of a coin, and the intestines must retain some fat for aroma. The most crucial element is the gravy — made with sweet potato starch to achieve a silky texture that coats the ingredients. Freshly minced garlic is essential and cannot be replaced by garlic paste.
4. Cooking Process
First, scrub the pork intestines with baking soda three times, then simmer them gently for two hours until tender. Blanch the liver briefly to lock in its freshness. Use pork bone broth as the base, add intestines and liver, then season with light and dark soy sauce. The key step is thickening — drizzle in starch slurry while stirring until the soup turns semi-transparent, and finally add a generous handful of minced garlic.
5. Flavor and Texture
The pork liver is as soft as tofu, melting instantly on the tongue; the pork intestines are chewy yet tender, releasing a rich, fatty aroma. As the smooth gravy slides down your throat, layers of garlicky sharpness, savory soy depth, and offal richness unfold, leaving a gentle sweetness at the end.
6. How to Eat
The authentic way is no spoon! Use chopsticks to pick out the ingredients with your right hand while rotating the bowl in your left hand to sip the thick broth. Always pair it with freshly steamed pork and scallion baozi — tear the bun and dip it in the gravy. The wheaty aroma of the bun perfectly balances the richness of the stew.
7. Where to Try It
Here are some spots for authentic Fried Liver in Gravy: Huguosi Snacks (standardized classic flavor), Yaoji Chao Gan near Drum Tower (time-honored brand), Kailin Restaurant in Hufangqiao hutong (local neighborhood taste), and Little Fat Baozi King (famous for pairing it with buns). A small bowl costs about 8–12 RMB, and a large bowl is 15–20 RMB. Order like the locals: “One bowl of Chao Gan and two baozi” — the classic combo.
8. Travel Tips
The English name is Fried Liver in Gravy (though it’s braised). The best time to try it is from 6–10 AM when the intestines are the freshest. If you’re not used to offal, ask for “less intestine, more liver.” Many old shops only accept cash, so bring small change. Because it has a strong garlic aroma, it’s best eaten on days without important plans afterward.
Gather your courage and dive into this bold and hearty traditional Beijing dish! It may look humble, but it carries over a century of local culinary history. When you stand there like the locals, slurping from your bowl, you’re tasting more than just breakfast — you’re sipping on living Beijing culture. And don’t forget the last sip of garlicky broth — it’s the soul of the entire bowl!
